Réunion Island, a gem of the Indian Ocean, is a land of dramatic, volcanic landscapes that captivate the soul. At its heart lie three majestic cirques, and among them, Cirque de Cilaos stands out as a destination of unparalleled beauty. Famous for its therapeutic thermal springs, world-class hiking trails, and breathtaking mountain views, Cilaos is a must-visit for any traveller seeking to immerse themselves in the island’s raw, natural splendour.
However, reaching this highland sanctuary is an adventure in itself, as the journey along the RN5 road from Saint-Louis is a legendary challenge. Nicknamed the "Road of 400 Bends", this winding asphalt ribbon with its narrow sections and sheer drops is not for the faint of heart. This article serves as a comprehensive guide, meticulously crafted to help you navigate this iconic route safely and, most importantly, enjoy every moment of the spectacular drive.
Conquering the winding road to Cilaos requires thorough preparation—from choosing the right vehicle to finding the correct timing and pacing your travel.
The first step to a successful journey is selecting the appropriate mode of transport. While the steep inclines of the road to Cilaos might tempt you to drive a powerful SUV, the truth is that a compact, nimble car is the ideal choice. A smaller vehicle is far easier to manoeuvre through the road's countless hairpin bends and narrow sections. Its size allows for more room to pass oncoming traffic, which is a frequent necessity. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is not required, as the road is fully paved. The most crucial factor is that your car is reliable and in excellent mechanical condition. A trustworthy engine, responsive steering, and, most importantly, dependable brakes are non-negotiable for this challenging route.
Before you even turn the key, a thorough inspection of your vehicle is paramount. This isn’t a leisurely Sunday drive; it’s a demanding mountain route. Take the time to check your tyre pressure and ensure they have sufficient tread. Your brakes, in particular, will be put to the test on the long, winding descent, so verify that they are in perfect working order. Check all fluid levels, including oil and coolant, and make sure your headlights and indicators are functioning correctly. One small but vital detail often overlooked is the horn. The use of your horn on this road is not a gesture of aggression but a critical safety measure, so ensure it’s loud and clear. A few minutes of preparation can save you from a great deal of trouble later.
Timing is everything when it comes to the road to Cilaos. The weather in the highlands can change in an instant, and a beautiful, sunny morning can quickly give way to a thick mist or a torrential downpour. Always check the local weather forecast before you depart. Driving in heavy rain is particularly hazardous, as it can lead to reduced visibility, slippery road surfaces, and the risk of rockfalls. The best time to start your journey is early in the morning. Not only does this allow you to avoid the busiest traffic times, but it also increases your chances of enjoying clear, unobstructed views of the cirque before the afternoon clouds and fog roll in, a common occurrence in this mountainous region.
Above all else, approach this drive with a patient and calm mindset. The RN5 is not a place to rush. Speeding along its tight bends is a recipe for disaster. The average speed is low, and that is by design. Embrace the journey as part of the destination. Allow ample time for your trip and be prepared for potential delays from other vehicles, road maintenance, or the sheer number of stops you’ll want to make for photos. While the 36-kilometre drive from Saint-Louis to Cilaos can be completed in as little as 90 minutes by an experienced local, it’s more realistic for a tourist to allocate at least two hours, especially if you plan to stop and admire the breathtaking scenery.
The RN5 is an engineering marvel that snakes its way up the mountain, clinging to the cliffside with a series of steep gradients and incredibly tight hairpin bends. It is a single carriageway, and in many places, it is barely wide enough for two cars to pass comfortably.
The road weaves through dramatic landscapes, passing beneath overhanging rocks and through short, dark tunnels. It’s a road that demands your full and undivided attention, not just from the driver but from the passengers as well, who can act as an extra pair of eyes for oncoming traffic. The journey is an intense and thrilling experience, but one that requires a great deal of respect for the road’s challenging nature. To help you navigate this challenging road, we have listed specific driving techniques that you should follow.
This is arguably the most critical piece of advice for this drive. On the dozens of blind corners and hairpin bends, it is standard practice to give a short but sharp blast of your horn as you approach. This simple act serves as a warning to any vehicles—especially large coaches or lorries—that might be coming the other way. It gives both you and the oncoming driver precious extra seconds to adjust your line and pass safely. Failing to do so is a common cause of close calls on this road.
The road to Cilaos is punctuated by several short, unlit, and one-lane tunnels. As you approach one, slow down and look for traffic. Vehicles already in the tunnel have the right of way. If you see headlights approaching from the other side, it is your responsibility to wait before you enter. These tunnels are incredibly narrow, and it is impossible for two cars to pass inside. Approach them cautiously and be prepared to stop.
The road is not suitable for overtaking. It’s a foolhardy and dangerous move that should be avoided at all costs. When you encounter a slower vehicle, be patient and wait for a designated wider section of the road or a pull-off area where they can safely allow you to pass. Similarly, when another car is approaching, the general rule of thumb is for the uphill driver to hold their line while the downhill driver finds a safe place to pull over slightly to allow a wider passing area.
On the steep sections of the road, maintaining a safe distance from the vehicle ahead is more important than ever. If the car in front of you has to brake suddenly, you will need extra time and space to react. This is particularly true on the long downhill stretches, where gravity is working against you. Rely on engine braking as much as possible to save your brakes from overheating.
Local drivers on the island are accustomed to these challenging conditions and may seem to drive with a confidence that can be intimidating. However, do not feel pressured to match their speed. Drive at a pace that you are comfortable with. The local drivers are generally patient and will understand that you are a tourist taking in the scenery. Be aware of other potential hazards, such as falling rocks, which are particularly common after heavy rainfall, and the occasional animal that might wander onto the road. Pay close attention to the road signs, which warn of these dangers.
The journey itself is one of the main attractions, and you should take full advantage of the opportunities to stop and admire the view. The road offers scenic views that will leave you in awe.
As you wind your way up the mountain, you’ll pass through the spectacular Bras de Cilaos Gorge. The sheer cliffs and lush vegetation are a sight to behold. Keep an eye out for the small waterfalls that cascade down the rock faces, especially during the rainy season. This is a great place to stop and appreciate the raw power of the island’s volcanic geology.
Located just before you arrive in Cilaos, La Roche Merveilleuse is a must-see viewpoint. From here, you are treated to a magnificent panoramic view of the entire Cirque de Cilaos, with the town nestled in the valley below and the surrounding mountain peaks piercing the sky. It's the perfect place to stop, breathe in the cool mountain air, and take some incredible photographs.
Throughout the drive, you’ll notice designated pull-off areas. These are specifically for drivers to stop and take in the scenery. Use them! Do not be tempted to pull over on a narrow bend or in a dangerous spot just for a quick photo. Your safety and the safety of others on the road are far more important than any picture.
After successfully navigating the twisting, turning, and awe-inspiring RN5, the feeling of accomplishment as you enter the tranquil town of Cilaos is immense. The challenge of the drive makes the arrival all the more rewarding. You will be greeted by the serene beauty of the mountain cirque, with its unique atmosphere and welcoming locals. The journey itself will become a memorable part of your holiday story, a testament to your adventurous spirit. Once you arrive, find a secure parking spot and take the time to explore the town on foot, savouring the peace and quiet that this beautiful mountain retreat offers.
While the thought of such a challenging drive might be intimidating, it is a truly unforgettable experience that is worth the effort. For a holiday that offers the ultimate freedom to explore Réunion Island's hidden corners at your own pace, a rental car is the only way to go. It gives you the flexibility to start your journey early, take as many scenic stops as you like, and discover the island's many treasures beyond the usual destinations. So, before you embark on your Réunion trip, be sure to rent a car from Final Rentals. It is your key to unlocking the breathtaking beauty of Cilaos and the rest of this extraordinary island. Your scenic driving adventure awaits!
