The island of Réunion, a French department moored in the turquoise depths of the Indian Ocean, is defined by its dramatic natural wonders. At its centre lie three massive volcanic amphitheatres known as Cirques, created by the ancient collapse of the Piton des Neiges volcano.
While Cilaos and Salazie are accessible by winding mountain roads, the Cirque de Mafate remains a world apart. It is a place where the postman still delivers mail on foot, where children attend school within the caldera, and where the only mechanical sound is the distant rhythm of a supply helicopter.
To enter Mafate is to step back into a pre-industrial silence, making it one of the most coveted destinations for hikers seeking a profound connection with the natural world. This roadless sanctuary, protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site, offers an experience of untouched beauty and cultural authenticity that is increasingly rare in the modern age.
Hiking in Mafate is not a casual stroll. The terrain is defined by extreme relief, characterised by steep volcanic ridges and deep ravines that require significant physical stamina. Preparing for this journey involves more than just a sense of adventure; it requires physical conditioning specifically tailored to elevation changes. Many trails involve ascending or descending over one thousand metres in a single day. Prospective hikers should spend several weeks prior to their trip engaging in hill walks or stair climbing to ensure their knees and lungs are prepared for the constant incline and decline of the caldera walls.
Equally important is the selection of your gear. The volcanic rock of Réunion is abrasive and often slippery when damp, making high-traction hiking boots with excellent ankle support essential. Traditional trainers or lightweight shoes will likely fail to provide the necessary grip on the sharp basalt paths.
Clothing should be selected based on the principle of layering. While the valleys can be sweltering in the tropical midday sun, altitudes exceeding 1600 metres can become quite chilly once the sun sets. Hikers should carry moisture-wicking base layers and a lightweight waterproof jacket to handle the sudden mountain mists.
Beyond clothing, a few specific items are indispensable for a comfortable stay. Most accommodations provide blankets, but for hygiene and extra warmth, a lightweight sleeping bag liner is required. A headlamp is necessary for navigating the dimly lit lodges at night and for those who wish to start their climbs before dawn.
Staying in a gîte d’étape is an integral part of the Mafate experience, as there are no conventional hotels within the caldera. These mountain lodges range from rustic dormitories to slightly more private bungalows, all managed by local families who live in the îlets year-round.
Planning your stay requires foresight, as the limited number of beds in the gîtes often fills up months in advance through the Reunion Island Tourism portal. It is highly recommended to book on a half-board basis, which includes both dinner and breakfast, as there are very few independent grocers or restaurants in the smaller hamlets.
Because all supplies arrive by helicopter or on the backs of the owners, the accommodation is intentionally simple but deeply atmospheric. Upon arrival, hikers are usually greeted with a sense of quietude that defines mountain life. The lodges provide basic bedding, typically consisting of a mattress, pillow, and heavy blankets.
Hikers must remember that the digital economy has not yet fully reached the interior of the cirque. Most inhabitants and lodge owners do not have access to card machines or ATMs, meaning that carrying a sufficient amount of cash is the only way to pay for extra drinks, snacks, or spontaneous local purchases.
For those visiting Mafate for the first time, a three-day loop starting from the Salazie side offers a perfect introduction to the diversity of the landscape. The journey typically begins at the Col des Bœufs, a high mountain pass that serves as a primary gateway into the cirque.
The first day of the trek leads hikers through the Plaine des Tamarins. This area is famous for its prehistoric atmosphere, where twisted tamarind trees are often draped in lichen and shrouded in a haunting mountain mist. The path then descends toward La Nouvelle, which serves as the unofficial capital of the cirque. As the most populated hamlet, it offers a fascinating glimpse into how a community functions without a single car, relying instead on solar power and mountain grit.
The second day is often considered the highlight of the trek, leading from La Nouvelle toward the high plateau of Marla. Along the way, the trail passes through Trois Roches, a spectacular geological feature where a river flows over a flat basalt platform before plunging into a narrow, vertical chasm. This is an ideal spot for a midday break, allowing hikers to bathe in the upstream pools and admire the sheer scale of the surrounding ramparts. Following this rest, a steep and steady climb brings travellers to Marla. Situated at sixteen hundred metres, Marla is the highest village in the cirque and offers some of the most dramatic views of the Crête de la Marianne and the surrounding peaks.
The final day focuses on the ascent out of the caldera. Leaving Marla in the early morning is essential, not only to avoid the heat of the day but to witness the sunrise over the high ridges. The climb back toward the Col des Bœufs is challenging but rewarding, providing panoramic views of the Grand Bénare ridge before the daily clouds roll in from the coast. Reaching the pass again marks the completion of the loop, leaving hikers with a profound sense of achievement and a new perspective on the scale of the island’s interior.
While hiking is the most intimate way to experience the cirque, there is another way to appreciate the sheer audacity of its geography. Helicopter tours departing from coastal towns like Saint-Gilles or Saint-Pierre provide an entirely different perspective.
From the air, the true verticality of the Mafate walls becomes apparent, revealing hidden waterfalls and narrow canyons that are inaccessible even to the most determined hikers. A helicopter flight often includes a pass over the Trou de Fer, a massive verdant hole into which several waterfalls plunge simultaneously, creating one of the most iconic sights in the Indian Ocean.
For many, the ideal way to experience Mafate is a hybrid approach. After spending several days on the ground, feeling the weight of the pack and the burn of the climb, seeing the same route from the air provides an ultimate sense of scale. It allows the traveller to trace their footsteps along the ridges and across the riverbeds, cementing the memory of the landscape in a way that ground travel alone cannot achieve. It is a breathtaking encore to a physical journey, offering a final, sweeping view of the roadless heart of the island before returning to the bustling life of the coast.
The Cirque de Mafate remains one of the world’s last great bastions of roadless inhabited wilderness. It is a place that demands effort, requiring hikers to earn every view through physical exertion and careful planning. In return, it offers a silence that is increasingly hard to find, a culture that remains deeply rooted in the land, and a landscape that feels as though it was carved by the gods.
For those who wish to truly make the most of this extraordinary island, you can rent a car to explore other cirques and beyond. By having your own vehicle, you gain the freedom to enjoy spontaneous trips to secluded beaches, traditional villages, and picturesque viewpoints that would otherwise be inaccessible. Book a car on Final Rentals today and fully embrace the spirit of discovery on this magnificent island.
