Réunion Island, a volcanic jewel in the Indian Ocean, is a land of dramatic contrasts. While the West Coast entices with its sun-drenched beaches and tranquil lagoons, the island's eastern flank offers something altogether different. This is the wild windward coast, a realm where nature reigns supreme. It is a land of constant renewal, shaped by relentless tropical downpours and the powerful forces of a fiery, subterranean heart.
The East Coast is a lush, untamed, and water-rich landscape, a testament to the island's immense geological power and its capacity for vibrant life. It is here that you will find a raw and authentic Réunion experience, a journey that is deeply rewarding and best discovered at your own pace with a car. This road trip is a masterclass in a land of extremes, blending the otherworldly terrain of a volcanic landscape with the lush tranquillity of cascading waterfalls, all set against a vibrant tapestry of multicultural heritage.
Embarking on a self-drive adventure along Réunion's East Coast requires a little preparation to ensure a smooth and enjoyable journey.
Your choice of vehicle is a good place to start. While a four-wheel-drive is not essential, a car with a decent ground clearance is advisable, as some of the smaller roads leading to viewpoints or trailheads can be uneven. More importantly, opt for a compact model that is easy to manoeuvre through the narrow, winding roads that snake through the dense, green landscape. Book your rental car in advance to secure the best rates and selection, particularly if you are travelling during peak season.
The best time for this particular road trip is during the island's dry season, which runs from May to November. The weather is generally cooler and less humid, and the roads are easier to navigate without the threat of torrential rain. However, the wet season from December to April has its own unique charm. While you might encounter heavier showers, it is during this time that the waterfalls are at their most spectacular, thundering down with incredible power. You will also find the vegetation at its most vibrant and verdant, a truly jaw-dropping spectacle for any nature lover. Regardless of the season, packing a waterproof jacket and sturdy shoes is a wise choice.
Beyond the vehicle and the weather, it is a good idea to pack for a full day of exploration. Bring plenty of water, some snacks, and a portable battery pack for your phone. Mobile phone signal can be patchy in some of the more remote areas, so it is best to download offline maps before you set off. While credit cards are widely accepted in towns, you will find that many of the smaller, family-run roadside stands and eateries operate on a cash-only basis. Having some euros on hand will allow you to indulge in fresh local produce and delicious street food, which is a key part of the experience.
Driving on the East Coast of Réunion is an experience in itself, requiring patience and a flexible mindset. Here’s a guide to help you learn the art of driving on the island.
The roads on the East Coast are a direct reflection of the landscape: wild, unpredictable, and sometimes challenging. The main coastal road, the RN2, is a relatively smooth and well-maintained highway that offers stunning panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. However, many of the most captivating sights are located inland, up smaller, winding roads that climb steeply into the hills. These roads are often narrow, with tight hairpin bends, so take your time and be prepared to give way to oncoming traffic.
Local drivers are generally courteous, but they are also used to the terrain and can be a little faster than a first-time visitor might expect. Always maintain a safe distance and pull over at designated viewpoints to let others pass. The coastal road can be particularly captivating, with incredible rock formations and crashing waves visible from your window. You will want to take frequent stops at the various lay-bys to soak in the incredible scenery and take photographs. Do not feel rushed; this journey is about the process, not just the destination.
One of the most unique aspects of driving on this coast is encountering the aftermath of past volcanic activity. The famous "Lava Route" is a prime example, where you will drive over solidified black rock that once flowed molten down the mountainside. These sections can feel like something from another planet. Always adhere to local signage and do not attempt to venture off-road onto the lava fields themselves, as they can be unstable and dangerous. Finally, be mindful of the weather. During heavy rainfall, some of the smaller roads can experience temporary closures due to landslides or rising water levels. It is always a good idea to check local traffic reports before setting off on your daily adventure.
We have curated an itinerary to guide you on your adventure from the north to the south of the East Coast. These must-visit destinations are not just scenic, but also filled with cultural gems.
Your eastern adventure begins in the north, in the towns of Sainte-Suzanne and Saint-André. These communities are the gateway to the East Coast and offer a gentle introduction to its rich agricultural and cultural heritage. Your first stop should be the Domaine du Grand Hazier, a working vanilla plantation where the air is thick with the sweet, intoxicating scent of orchids. A guided tour here provides a fascinating insight into the intricate, labour-intensive process of producing Réunion's famous Bourbon vanilla. You will learn about the history of this "black gold" and its importance to the island's economy, a perfect sensory start to your journey.
Just a few kilometres away lies the Distillerie de Savanna in Saint-André, a testament to the island's other major crop: sugar cane. This historical distillery offers an opportunity to learn about the process of rum production, from the harvesting of the sugar cane to the final distillation. A tasting session is a must, allowing you to sample a variety of rums infused with local fruits like vanilla, lychee, and pineapple. The area is also home to the impressive Niagara Waterfall, a popular and easily accessible spot for a quick photo stop, its waters thundering down into a large, inviting basin.
As you continue south, the landscape becomes increasingly dramatic and lush, a clear sign of the higher rainfall in this region. The towns of Bras-Panon and Saint-Benoît are your next stops, and they are defined by an abundance of water and dense, emerald greenery. Here you will discover the beautiful natural pools of Bassin La Paix and Bassin La Mer, tranquil spots where you can swim and take in the stunning surroundings. These basins are a refreshing interlude on a warm day, offering moments of serene relaxation.
A visit to this area would be incomplete without seeing the magnificent Takamaka Gorge. This deep, dramatic chasm showcases the sheer power of erosion, carved out by the Rivière des Marsouins over millennia. The winding road to the viewpoint offers a sense of immense scale, leading to a breathtaking vista of the gorge and the colossal hydroelectric power station at its base. For the truly adventurous traveller, the nearby Rivière des Roches offers a chance for gorge walking or rafting, allowing you to get up close and personal with the raw power of the river.
The journey through Sainte-Rose is perhaps the most surreal and captivating leg of your trip. This is where the landscape transforms, bearing the indelible scars of past volcanic eruptions. The road here is known as the "Lava Route", and it is an experience unlike any other. You will drive over vast, black fields of solidified lava, a testament to the unpredictable and powerful forces of nature. These barren, otherworldly landscapes stretch from the mountains down to the sea, creating a stark and beautiful contrast with the green coastline.
The main attraction in this area, and a powerful symbol of the island's unique relationship with its volcano, is the Notre-Dame des Laves Church. The story behind this church is a modern-day miracle. During the massive 1977 eruption, a lava flow descended the slopes of the Piton de la Fournaise, threatening to engulf the small town of Sainte-Rose. The molten river of rock flowed through the town but miraculously split just before the church, flowing around the building and leaving it completely unharmed. The solidified lava now stands as a dramatic, black river that flows right up to the church doors, a humbling and extraordinary sight that speaks to both nature's destructive power and its capacity for grace.
While not directly on the coast, a car is the key to unlocking the quintessential Réunion experience: a visit to Piton de la Fournaise. The side trip inland from the coast is an absolute must. The journey itself is an adventure, as the road climbs higher and the scenery undergoes a dramatic transformation. The lush greenery of the lowlands gives way to the barren, lunar landscape of the Plaine des Sables, an otherworldly plateau of red earth and volcanic rock that truly makes you feel like you have landed on another planet.
The drive culminates at the Pas de Bellecombe viewpoint, the main lookout to the volcano’s caldera. From here, you can gaze out at the vast, crater-filled expanse of the Enclos Fouqué, the heart of one of the world’s most active volcanoes. The scale of the landscape is immense and humbling, a powerful reminder of the forces that shaped this incredible island. If time and fitness allow, you can descend the hundreds of steps to the caldera floor and hike on the solidified lava, an unforgettable experience that brings you even closer to the volcano's beating heart.
A self-drive tour of the East Coast is not just about the drive; it is about the myriad of experiences that complement the journey. With your own transport, you have the freedom to stop wherever you like, be it at a roadside stall selling fresh lychees or at a hidden trailhead.
The region is a hiker's paradise, featuring an extensive network of trails that meander through the breathtaking primary forests, such as Bébour, where you can immerse yourself in the vibrant ecosystem teeming with the island's distinctive flora and fauna. As you traverse these paths, you'll encounter everything from towering trees to rare orchids, all set against a backdrop of stunning natural beauty.
For the adventurous at heart, the eastern rivers and gorges present exhilarating opportunities for canyoning and rafting, where the swift currents provide both excitement and a chance to explore hidden waterfalls and spectacular rock formations. Local guides, equipped with extensive knowledge of the terrain and safety protocols, are eager to lead you on these thrilling excursions, ensuring not just an adrenaline rush but also a deep appreciation for the remarkable landscapes, making your journey both unforgettable and enriching.
Your car allows you to fully immerse yourself in the island's rich multicultural heritage, making it easy to explore hidden gems at your own pace. Seek out the vibrant Tamil temples adorned with intricate carvings and colourful decorations, where you can witness traditional ceremonies and soak in the spiritual atmosphere. Nearby, local eateries offer fragrant dishes, inviting you to immerse yourself in the warm hospitality of the local people.
Trying local Creole cuisine at a charming table d'hôte is truly a highlight; you'll savour authentic dishes like fish rougaille and coconut custard, while sharing delightful stories with your hosts, who are eager to share their culture and culinary traditions. This experience not only tantalises your taste buds but also creates lasting memories and connections with the island's diverse community.
The East Coast of Réunion Island is a land of raw and untamed beauty, a place where the powerful forces of nature are on full display. From the dramatic volcanic landscapes and the miraculous stories of lava flows, to the tranquil natural pools and the lush, verdant forests, this region offers a travel experience that is both exhilarating and deeply enriching. A self-drive tour is the only way to truly unlock its secrets, providing you with the freedom and flexibility to explore at your own pace, linger at the spots that captivate you, and create a journey that is uniquely your own.
To fully embrace this wild and unforgettable side of the island, you must have the keys to your own adventure. A rental car is not just a convenience; it is an essential tool for exploration, a gateway to the hidden gems that lie beyond the famous tourist spots. So, plan your route, pack your bags, and book your rental car today. Your adventure along the wild windward coast of Réunion Island awaits.
