For Malagasy foodies accustomed to a vibrant tapestry of spices and fresh produce, Réunion Island presents an irresistible invitation. Just a stone's throw across the Indian Ocean, this French overseas department is a melting pot of cultures—African, Indian, Chinese, and European—all simmering together to create a unique and utterly delectable culinary landscape.
Forget everything you thought you knew about island food; Réunion is about to embark you on an epicurean journey that will tantalise your taste buds and leave you yearning for more. This guide is crafted specifically for Malagasy foodies, offering a comprehensive look at how to prepare for, navigate, and savour every moment of a culinary escapade to this magnificent island.
Before your taste buds can dance to the rhythm of Réunion’s flavours, some practical preparations are in order. A well-planned trip ensures a smooth and enjoyable experience, allowing you to focus on the delicious discoveries ahead.
For Malagasy citizens, a visa is required to enter Réunion Island. Gather all necessary documents, including a completed visa application form, your passport valid for at least six months beyond your intended stay, recent passport-sized photographs, proof of accommodation, a return flight ticket, and travel insurance. It is crucial to check the most up-to-date visa requirements with the French Embassy or Consulate in Madagascar well in advance of your travel dates.
Flights from Antananarivo to Roland Garros Airport (RUN) in Saint-Denis, Réunion, are readily available. It is advisable to book your flights several months in advance, especially if you are travelling during peak season, to secure better fares. Consider opting for flexible tickets if your schedule is prone to changes. Keep an eye out for special promotions and package deals that might include both flights and accommodation.
Réunion Island offers a diverse range of accommodation options to suit every budget and preference, from luxurious resorts to charming guesthouses and self-catering apartments. For the culinary-focused traveller, consider staying in an area that offers easy access to local markets, restaurants, and food stalls. In Saint-Denis, the capital, you will find a good selection of hotels and apartments, providing a convenient base for exploring the northern parts of the island and its urban food scene.
If you prefer a more laid-back atmosphere closer to the beaches and lagoons, consider staying in Saint-Gilles-les-Bains or Ermitage, which boast a vibrant array of restaurants and beachside eateries. If you want an immersive experience in the heart of nature, gîtes (traditional guesthouses) in the cirques like Cilaos, Salazie, or Mafate offer a unique opportunity to sample authentic local cuisine amidst breathtaking landscapes.
Booking your accommodation well in advance, especially during school holidays and festivals, is highly recommended. Utilise online travel agencies or direct bookings with hotels to compare prices and read reviews. Many accommodations also offer breakfast, which can be an excellent way to start your day with local flavours.
Réunion's climate is tropical, so pack light and breathable clothing made from natural fabrics like cotton or linen. Given the island's diverse topography, from coastal areas to high-altitude cirques, it is wise to pack layers.
When packing for your trip, consider bringing lightweight clothing such as T-shirts, shorts, dresses, and skirts for everyday wear, along with swimwear to enjoy the beautiful beaches and lagoons. Comfortable walking shoes are indispensable for exploring markets, towns, and short hikes, while a light jacket or jumper is essential for cooler evenings, especially in the highlands. Don't forget rain gear, like a compact umbrella or lightweight waterproof jacket, as tropical showers can occur.
Sun protection is crucial, so pack high-SPF sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses. Insect repellent will help ward off mosquitoes, particularly in the evenings. It's also wise to carry a reusable water bottle to stay hydrated during your explorations and a travel adapter, as Réunion uses Type E electrical sockets. Lastly, include a camera with extra memory cards to capture all your culinary discoveries and stunning scenery, along with a small cooler bag to bring back fresh produce or local delicacies from the markets.
Réunion Island is relatively compact, but each region offers its own distinct culinary character. From bustling markets to charming roadside eateries, the island is a treasure trove of gastronomic delights.
As the capital, Saint-Denis is a vibrant hub where you can experience the full spectrum of Réunion’s cultural diversity reflected in its food. Explore the Grand Marché (Grand Market), a sensory feast where you will find an abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables, spices, and local crafts. This is an excellent place to sample samosas, bonbons piment (chilli cakes), and bouchons (steamed dumplings), often sold by street vendors.
For a more substantial meal, head to the city's many restaurants offering a blend of Creole, Indian, Chinese, and French cuisines. Do not miss trying cari (curry), a staple of Réunionnais cuisine, often served with rice, lentils, and various rougails (chilli sauces). Look for restaurants serving authentic Creole dishes like rougail saucisses (sausage rougail) or massalé cabri (goat massalé).
Venturing into the island's spectacular cirques offers not only breathtaking scenery but also an opportunity to experience authentic, rustic Réunionnais cuisine. In Cirque de Cilaos, known for its thermal baths and lentils, you must try dishes made with the famed lentilles de Cilaos. Many guesthouses and small restaurants offer hearty, home-stle cooking.
Cirque de Salazie, with its lush greenery and stunning waterfalls, is famous for its chouchou (chayote), a versatile vegetable used in everything from gratins to desserts. Look for "table d'hôtes" (guest tables) where you can enjoy traditional meals prepared by your hosts.
Cirque de Mafate, only accessible by foot or helicopter, offers an unparalleled experience of isolated village life and simple, yet incredibly flavourful, cooking. The ingredients are often grown locally, and the dishes reflect the resilience and resourcefulness of the inhabitants. Expect hearty stews and vegetable-based dishes.
The West Coast, with its beautiful beaches and lagoons, also boasts a thriving culinary scene. The Marché de Saint-Paul (Saint-Paul Market), held on Fridays and Saturdays, is an absolute must-visit. Situated right by the ocean, it is one of the island's most picturesque markets, offering an incredible array of fresh seafood, tropical fruits, spices, and prepared dishes. Here, you can indulge in freshly grilled fish, achards (pickled vegetables), and an assortment of sweet treats.
Along the coast, particularly in Saint-Gilles-les-Bains, you will find numerous restaurants specialising in seafood. Try the fresh catch of the day, often prepared simply to highlight its natural flavours, or opt for a more elaborate cari poisson (fish curry). Many beachside snack bars offer refreshing jus de fruits frais (fresh fruit juices) and crêpes.
The south of the island, with its wilder coastline and proximity to the Piton de la Fournaise volcano, offers a different culinary perspective. Saint-Pierre, the main town in the south, has a vibrant waterfront with many restaurants. This region is known for its agricultural produce, including vanilla and spices. You can take tours of vanilla and spice plantations.
Visit the Maison du Curcuma (Turmeric House) in Saint-Joseph to learn about the cultivation of this essential spice and its role in Réunionnais cuisine. Explore the smaller towns and villages to find roadside stalls selling fresh produce and homemade preserves. The south also has a strong Indian influence, so you will find excellent biryanis and rougails here.
To truly maximise your Réunion Island culinary adventure, keep these tips in mind.
Renting a car is the key to unlocking the island's diverse gastronomic landscape. With a car, you can freely explore local markets at your leisure, visiting multiple towns and filling your cooler bag with fresh produce, spices, and local delicacies without the constraints of bus schedules or heavy loads on foot.
Embarking on scenic food drives along the "Route du Volcan" and the "Route du Tamarin" allows you to stop at charming roadside eateries showcasing local specialities, creating your own culinary narrative across the island. Accessing remote culinary gems on Réunion is a delightful experience, as many of the most authentic and charming "tables d’hôtes" and small, family-run restaurants are nestled in picturesque, less-accessible villages that public transport often overlooks.
Driving maximises your time, enabling you to easily transition from coastal seafood shacks to mountainous curry houses in a single day, making the most of your precious holiday. Additionally, having a car means you can comfortably transport all your delicious souvenirs, from bottles of local rum to bags of exotic spices, back to your accommodation and ultimately home to Madagascar.
Book your rental car in advance, especially if you are travelling during peak season, to ensure availability and potentially better rates. Consider a small, economical car for easy navigation on winding mountain roads. Ensure you have a valid driving licence and are familiar with the local traffic regulations.
Renting a car will undoubtedly elevate your Réunion Island culinary adventure from a pleasant trip to an unforgettable odyssey of taste. Book your rental car today to embrace the open road and let your palate lead the way!
