Mountain roads in Réunion can surprise first-time visitors, especially when visibility changes quickly, and bends appear one after another. Many travellers rent a car in Réunion because it gives them more flexibility to stop at viewpoints, start early, and explore beyond the coast. Our guide explains what tourists should know about driving in Cilaos, including road conditions, weather, safety tips, car hire advice, and the best places to visit upon arrival.
Driving in Cilaos is very different from driving along the coast or through the flatter parts of the island. The route demands concentration because the roads change constantly throughout the climb. You move through repeated bends, short-visibility sections, tunnels, and exposed mountain walls, so steering, braking, and timing matter more than speed.
If you want the real feel of Cilaos, a rental car gives you the most freedom. The RN5 is the only road into the cirque, with around 400 bends, ravines, cliffs, and tunnels. When driving to Cilaos from Saint Denis, you can head south using the RN1 towards Saint-Louis before the mountain climb.
From Saint-Louis, the drive to Cilaos takes about 90 minutes by car, which is one reason many visitors prefer to rent a car in Réunion rather than rely solely on fixed transport.
Once the climb begins, the road becomes a series of tight switchbacks, cliff-cut lanes, and narrow tunnels. Three tunnels follow a simple local rule: the first vehicle to enter has priority, and using your horn before blind sections is normal mountain-road etiquette rather than aggressive behaviour.
You also share the route with buses, vans, and local drivers who know the road well, so it is much safer to use designated pull-in areas rather than trying to keep up with them. Safe scenic stops such as Peter Both and Petit Serré are far better choices than random roadside parking.
In the Cilaos mountains, early morning is usually the best time to travel. Mountain clouds often build later in the day, reducing visibility and making the descent more tiring. Réunion’s cyclone season runs from December to March, bringing periods of heavy rain, runoff, wet rock surfaces, and occasional road works or closures after storms.
Fog can also develop along the RN5, especially around tunnel sections and exposed mountain walls. If you want clearer views and a calmer journey, start after sunrise and avoid leaving the descent until late afternoon.
The road rewards calm, patient driving. Use lower gears on descents and make use of proper turnouts because steep downhill sections can overheat brakes if you rely too heavily on the brake pedal.
Before leaving the coast, save local road traffic and weather contact numbers in case conditions change during the day. Fill the fuel tank before starting the climb, carry water, and arrive early if you want easier parking near the thermal area, hiking trails, or the town centre.
Your vehicle choice can completely change how comfortable this route feels. On the RN5, accuracy matters more than size, and a confident driver in a practical car will usually feel more comfortable than a nervous driver in a large vehicle. That is why brake condition, visibility, and downhill control matter before beginning the climb.
If you rent a car in Réunion for this route, choose a reliable car rental company and carefully review the insurance and excess details before booking. For the mountain road, a small hatchback or compact SUV is usually the best choice because it is easier to handle on tight curves and narrow tunnel sections.
Driving an automatic vehicle in Réunion can also help by reducing constant gear changes. Hill-start assist is useful on steep village streets, too. Large vans or campers are usually harder to manage because some sections of the RN5 leave very little room for error. Before leaving, make sure the brakes and cooling system are in good condition.
Travellers planning to drive in Cilaos can book with Final Rentals to ensure access to cars suited for mountain roads.
On downhill sections, use engine braking whenever possible. Select a lower gear before descending to prevent the brake system from overheating during long stretches. Slow down before entering each hairpin bend instead of braking sharply halfway through the corner.
If faster local drivers build up behind you, use paved turnouts to let them pass safely. If this is your first time driving in Cilaos, avoid your first descent after dark. The route has no public lighting in many areas, fog can appear quickly, and wet night surfaces make bends more difficult than they appear during the day.
Returning is often harder than the climb itself. Many first-time visitors arrive in town feeling confident, then lose concentration on the long downhill drive and brake too hard. This is also why the tighter local roads near Bras-Sec or the bends towards Ilet à Cordes can feel more difficult once you are tired.
Passenger comfort is another important point. With around 400 bends, motion sickness can affect both children and adults, so smooth steering and gentle braking are important for safe driving. Another mistake while driving in Cilaos is stopping under rockfall nets for photographs. These areas exist because falling rocks are a real risk after heavy rain, so it is always safer to stop only in proper parking areas.
A car works best in Cilaos when you use it mainly for access rather than trying to drive directly to every viewpoint. Park properly where possible and walk the remaining distance when needed.
While driving in Cilaos, Peter Both and Petit Serré are among the best-known safe stopping points for mountain views and photographs overlooking the winding road below. Palmiste Rouge is another inhabited area directly connected to the RN5 and offers quieter mountain surroundings.
Once you reach town, La Roche Merveilleuse is one of the classic viewpoints overlooking the cirque. The belvedere is accessible from the road, making it an easy stop for visitors arriving by car. After rainfall, water often runs down the rock walls near tunnel sections.
One of the easiest ways to relax after the drive is visiting the thermal spa at the Irénée Accot establishment, which includes parking and wellness facilities nearby. Another worthwhile stop is the Maison de la Broderie, known for its permanent exhibition and displays dedicated to the famous embroidery traditions of Cilaos.
If you want a quieter rural experience, the drive towards Ilet à Cordes passes farms, local produce stalls, and views across the mountain plateau. The Chai de Cilaos also offers cellar visits and tastings, making it easy to turn a mountain drive into a food-and-culture day.
For hikers, the Bras-Sec side is especially important because the main Piton des Neiges trail access points are reachable by car. However, overnight parking is not recommended at some trail car parks.
If you want a simple evening after the journey, staying near the town centre is usually the easiest option because you can park once and walk to restaurants and hotels nearby. Rue du Père Boiteau runs through the centre, and accommodation with private parking is especially useful after a long day on the road.
This area is also one of the best places to try local Creole meals prepared with Cilaos lentils and regional wine. Travellers looking for quieter mountain surroundings may prefer Palmiste Rouge instead, which is about 10 kilometres from town and offers more peaceful views across the landscape.
Driving in Cilaos is one of the most memorable experiences in Réunion, but it requires patience, focus, and preparation. The winding RN5 mountain road includes hundreds of bends, tunnels, and steep sections, so choosing the right vehicle and driving carefully makes a big difference.
Rent a car in Reunion Island with Final Rentals to enjoy unlimited mileage, included CDW and third-party liability coverage, and a choice of compact cars that are easier to handle on the winding Cilaos mountain roads. Book and manage your car rental at any time. Download the Final Rentals app on Google Play and the App Store.
Yes, it can be challenging because the RN5 is the only access road and includes about 400 bends, tunnels, narrow cliffside sections, and changing mountain clouds. If you drive calmly, start early, and use turnouts when you are slower than traffic, most confident drivers can do it safely in a normal car.
Yes, many visitors do exactly that. Airport and island car-hire companies are common, but a compact or small automatic car is usually easier to drive on the RN5 than a large vehicle.
Morning is the best time to drive because the mountain views are usually clearer before clouds start building over the cirques later in the day.
